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Thursday, March 20, 2014

Bryton Wolfe U.R. Week In review




Swell Height chart for March 20th



      Continuing upon my research as to how frontal boundaries affect swells in the region I followed this week quite in detail. With the massive front that drove through our region the passed few days I have noticed a distinct correlation with how a front really affects the ocean around it. At the leading edge of the front in which it becomes quite rainy I noticed that there wasn't much of a swell to begin with. Ranging in the 2-3 foot range with extremely short periods of approximately 8 seconds. It wasn't until after the rain subsided and the wind picked up to about the 15-20mph range was when I noticed a distinct build in the surf. For instance, Today, Thursday March 20th, there is a swell height of 3-5 feet at a period of 12 seconds! One piece of evidence that I found fascinating was that it is actually after primary frontal boundary (where all the rain is) that the swell is affected rather than the boundary itself. I will continue research into this with the next front expected to hit Tuesday of next week.
Wind Speed March 20th
Swell Period March 20th
Attached are a couple of pictures that show satellite images of swell period, height, and wind speed. Using the equations in class I am able to determine wave speed and wavelength Which could be used to predict how good the surf is expected to be as well as an the height at which the wave will break.

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